sleaves

Well I didnt think it happend before but when I took my shortblock appart I found a score in one of my cylinders. The block has already been punched out .040 and I already bought pistons so going .060 is out of the question.

Has anybody had any experience whith cylinder sleaves? Would it be worth sleaving that cylinder or should I just get another block.

302? Chunk it for a 351. :eyebrows:

What he said. :iws: Ford shortblocks are cheap!

I think that is a 351 right, the same one that dropped a vavle?

LS

Yeah its already a 351, I just dont wanna have to spend all the money on machine work again

shit, if it's a 351, talk to your machinist about sleeving it! I'm curious as to how much that would cost.

What all machine work would be involved if you replaced the block?

I've built a 2.3L ranger engine that had to have 2 sleeves in it. Granted, a friend of my dad's did the sleeving for next to nothing, and did good work, so it was worth it. It was a mild build on a n/a 4 popper though. It was never really stressed to the point it would tear itself up (although it saw 6000+ rpm a few times). How big and bad of a smallblock are you building? If your staying under 350 or so horsepower, and it's done right, I'd think it would be o.k. Once you start going over that though, I'd want to make sure I have a good foundation, and would start with a fresh block. But then again I'm not a fan of going more than .030 overbore on a performance smallblock Ford. JMHO.

G-Mokey said he wouldn't mind sleeving his SVO block to use it again. He should be putting around 700hp through it with the sauce.

I am curious how well sleeves should hold up as well. I just had my 350 block bored .060" over and the #5 cylinder had to be sleeved. I've got AFR heads coming in the mail, the mill should put out over 500hp NA no problem, and I will be working up to at least a 200 shot once I get a trans and rearend that can handle it. It will be a few months before the engine goes back in the car, but I'll let you know how well the sleeve works.

The machine shop told me it would cost me 35 bucks a hole. Beats the hell out of buying another block then haveing to spend another $200 at the machine shop to have it done. This one is alreay at a .040, and it didnt have but about 75 miles on it when that valve droped.

If your staying under 350 or so horsepower, and it's done right, I'd think it would be o.k. Once you start going over that though, I'd want to make sure I have a good foundation, and would start with a fresh block. But then again I'm not a fan of going more than .030 overbore on a performance smallblock Ford. JMHO.

No its going to be about 400 horse, plus a shot of gas. Im still up in the air on this. If the machine shop says they will guarentee the sleeve ill do it, but if not im not going to risk it because it will always be in the back of my mind

$35 is cheap. It was just over $100 to get mine sleeved...and the dude wouldn't guarentee his work. :\

$35 is cheap. It was just over $100 to get mine sleeved...and the dude wouldn't guarentee his work. :\

I talked to him again, its 35 bucks a sleeve but you have to pay 75 bucks to have the block cleaned before hand. He left that part out the first time I talked to him.

Im kinda thinking more about just getting a new block, one guy I know told me he had a sleave leak on him, and another said he had one drop down. If I sleeve it its always gonna be in the back of my mind.